Paris (AFP) – Kenzo designer Nigo found his groove for his sophomore collection at the LVMH-owned home, drawing vibrant parallels to home founder Kenzo Takada.
Nigo made history as the first Japanese designer to headline the house since Takada, who passed away in 2020.
But out of fashion, Nigo—who has built high-profile collaborations with Pharrell—has a real star attraction, once again drawing in this season’s big names like Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel.
Here are some of the highlights of the menswear collections for Spring-Summer 2023 on Sunday in Paris.
Kenzo returns to Earth
Set in a college hall and through the 1970s, prep atmosphere, Nigo channeled the dazzling color and cultural fusion that has become synonymous with the home’s origins.
Hanging from the roof are flags that read “Kenzo 1970”. For fashion students, a reference not lost: Not only was this date the year Takada gave his first fashion show at Galerie Vivien in Paris in front of his new store, Jungle Gap, it was also the year Nego was born.
Funky scarves, reminiscent of Boy Scout patterns, turned into colorful lapels over uniformed suits.
A bright yellow patchwork bodice featured an African vibe and mixed with Breton striped scarves, nautical themes and criss-cross Asian patterns in the jackets. It has created a dynamic cultural melting pot.
But it is the whimsical and humorous that characterize spring and summer in this powerful show – thick woolen socks on canary yellow flip-flops, crimson flower motifs and multicolored hats.
Nigo, 51, is the second Asian designer to head a European haute couture brand, along with Filipino-American Bally Rhuigi Villaseñor. His appointment remains a milestone as the luxury industry more broadly grapples with questions about racism and diversity.
Screaming and crying fans on either side of the Palais de Tokyo in Paris noisily crowded ahead of Celine’s evening show on Sunday. However, they did not come in search of designer Hedi Slimane’s costumes, but to take a look at one of the most popular pop stars in the world: Kim Taehyung, aka V of BTS, the million-selling disc of South Korean boy band.
Inside the venue, the proceedings around the spring-summer set kick-off were marginally quieter. Guests drank small bottles of champagne marked “CELINE,” as large, abstract mirrors descend on ropes from the ceiling reflecting light in all directions to funky rock.
Grumpy, shaggy-haired teenage models of the past, in the designer’s signature style, showcased his early ’70s styles that were high-gloss and sexy on L.A. rock.
Winklepickers and blue jeans are crowned with fringed black leather coats and shades – in the tried and tested French-Tunisian designer styles. Gently flowing black pants were used as a backdrop for fringed coats and jackets. One came in dazzling golden sequins.
However, despite the cuteness, there was little to no new here in the designer’s repertoire. For Slimane, who has masterfully marketed a similar aesthetic in Saint Laurent, it’s a case of “if you don’t break, don’t fix it.”
WOOYOUNGMI’s Cute Contrasts
Sobriety met moments of punk – and the “late ’90s skateboarding community” – at the collection of South Korean designer Woo Young Mi on Sunday in the ornate interiors of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Paris.
Elegant tailoring of the suits, like a double-breasted number that opened the show with a subtle nip at the waist, contrasted with sneakers and white jackets. You made a masterful play in contradiction.
Pants were a big topic—they were styled loose in the ’90s. They are hung in a beautiful curved shape at the bottom of the leg.
There have been moments of sensuality – and humor – throughout this 42-piece joint display that marked the two decades since the brand’s launch. A touchy, semi-sheer blue jacket was worn by a model with her greasy hair carrying a luxurious square leather bag.
The Infinite Variations of Tom Brown
It was the occasion for a theatrical performance for suit-loving Tom Brown, as VIPs including Farida Khelfa – dressed in head-to-toe designer costume – took their seats after the show had apparently begun. Guests were in stitches laughing at what appeared to be an intentional choreography.
Then a strange voiceover suggested that the “real” show would begin – as a supermodel with giant spiky hair wearing a custom-made beige jacket, tie and shorts.
This was followed by pastel gray tweeds in contrasting patterns – and with multiple layers completely unsuitable for the spring-summer season. Worn by a mannequin with an ornate anchor covering his face holding a dog-shaped bag, the “35” tag in the old-school couture tradition features a numbered look.
Striped tights, shorts, tweed skirts, black bags, and pastel knit and striped plaid suits created what seemed like endless variations on the same theme.
“Internet maven. Reader. Tv fanatic. Friendly communicator. Certified alcohol practitioner. Bacon buff. Explorer. Evil twitteraholic.”